Archive for category Undereyes

Veiny Undereyes?

Megan noticed that in my videos, I have “absolutely no undereye circles-or those little blue veins that frame them,” and wanted to know what concealers I use, and how.

Except on my worst days, I actually just use my regular foundation-Revlon Colorstay Normal/Oily-under my eyes with a bit of setting powder.  Full coverage foundations often eliminate the need for concealer on all but the darkest blemishes or circles.

On days when I’ve gotten no sleep and can’t go with just foundation alone, I use MUFE Full Coverage.  I take a concealer brush and dab a tiny bit right underneath where the shadows are darkest (usually right underneath my tearducts), turn the brush over, and feather it up to my lower lashline and towards the inner corner, then up slightly onto my eyelid.  If necessary, I’ll dot a tiny bit under my pupil, and feather it towards the outer corner.  Then, using my ring finger, I pat (making sure not to drag) it out a bit, then apply foundation.

For people who rely on concealer for daily use, I definitely recommend the Full Coverage (for those with oily skin, long days, or extremely dark circles) or MUFE’s Lift concealer (for people who have more fine lines and wrinkles).


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The Undereye Uglies

Anonymous asked how to avoid cakey underye concealer.

Depending on what type of foundation you use, you may not even need a concealer, and in using one, you may be doubling up on product, which can lead to caking.  Full and even medium coverage foundations are often more than enough to conceal relatively dark under-eye circles.

However, assuming you do need one, try these steps:

  1. Apply your eye cream (not one with any oils, as these can mix with the concealer and cause it to either separate or cake). Let it sit for five to ten minutes, then blot off the excess moisture.
  2. Try a liquid concealer.  My favorite is MUFE Full Coverage for really dark circles (it’s completely waterproof and you barely need any to completely conceal.)  These are much less likely to cake than cream concealers.  However, if you do need even more coverage, apply cream concealer in very light layers, building it up rather than applying it all at once.
  3. Dot concealer at the very bottom of your under-eye area, and blend upwards toward your lower lashline.  This ensures that the most product is concentrated where your circles will be darkest, and avoids placing a lot of product where you may have lines or creases (which can lead to creasing and caking.)
  4. Use a brush or your ring finger (this is one of the only times I advise using your fingers for makeup application) to pat the concealer into place, rather than sweeping.
  5. Let the concealer settle for a minute or two.  Open your eyes really wide, and blot under your eyes with a tissue.  This will remove excess product and moisture.  If any concealer has settled into any lines, take the tissue or your finger and gently blot over the obvious line of product that will appear when you widen your eyes.
  6. Using a small, thin powder puff, press a tiny amount of translucent loose powder over the concealer.  This will set it for the rest of the day and hopefully prevent it from further creasing.


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Undereye Veins

I wanted to expand a tiny bit on the recent post I did about concealing undereye circles.  Hopefully most of you know basic color theory, but for those of you who don’t, here’s a quickie lesson:

  • Colors opposite to each other on the color wheel neutralize each other.  Targeting “problem” face colors, this means that green neutralizes redness, lilac neutralizes sallowness, and salmon/peach neutralize purple-ish undereye circles.  The only “exception” is yellow, which can kind of multitask; it helps minimize redness and downplays blue-tinted veins.  Applying a corrector with hints of these colors in them will help to even out the problem area and stop the dastardly color from poking through your foundation or concealer.

Before we continue, let’s get one thing straight.  There are concealers and correctors, and they are very different.  Concealers are meant to cover a discolored area and bring it towards the shade of the rest of the face, and may be worn alone if the discoloration is not too severe.  Correctors (which often come in green, lilac, and yellow) are meant to neutralize the shades of problem areas, but require foundation or concealer over them (otherwise, they may appear ashy or just downright odd).  Correctors are more of a professional tool, but for some of you, they may be required.  Most of you are probably familiar with them in primer form (MUFE sells some great ones), and these may not need much else over them to hide their initial color; however, the most heavy duty ones come in cream form (much like a concealer), and a few companies sell liquid varieties (though these are often meant to be added into foundations and should not be used by the casual consumer unless you are quite confident in your knowledge of color theory and mixing/blending ability.)  Some setting powders also contain the a hint of yellow to minimize redness (Ben Nye’s Banana Poudre is amazing for this).

So, if you want to hide blue veins under the eyes, turn towards a yellow-based corrector if they’re very offensive, or a heavily pigmented, yellow-based concealer if they’re less so.  In this case, the yellow tint in a good concealer should be enough to disguise them without having to turn to a corrector, and this saves you the possibly problematic step of adding another layer of product under your eyes.

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